Discovering raw materials: jasmine
Understanding this precious flower
Jasmine is one of perfumery's most iconic flowers. Its fragrance is powerful, intoxicating, and deeply sensual. This makes it an absolute must-have ingredient. Understanding jasmine helps you choose better fragrances. Let's explore its origins, secrets, and use in perfume.
Two main types of jasmine
About 200 varieties of jasmine exist worldwide. Perfumers work with just two specific types. The first is Jasmine Grandiflorum. It grows in Egypt and India. The second is Jasmine Sambac. India cultivates this variety extensively.
Each type has its own distinct scent profile. Grandiflorum smells animalic, sunny, and fruity. Jasmine Sambac has a greener olfactory character. It carries honeyed facets reminiscent of orange blossom. Both are precious, but they create different effects.
The harvesting process
Jasmine flowers must be picked at sunrise. Workers harvest them carefully by hand. This timing is crucial for quality. The flowers are then extracted using volatile solvents. This creates a concrete, which is flower wax. The concrete gets heated with alcohol. This produces jasmine absolute—the final precious material.
The yield is remarkably small. It takes around 8,000 flowers for just 600 grams. This explains why jasmine absolute costs so much. Every drop represents incredible labor and countless blossoms.
A journey from east to west
Jasmine Sambac has ancient roots in Asia. Southeast Asia and the Middle East prized it for centuries. People used it mainly for making attars. These are alcohol-free, oil-based perfumes. Western perfumery discovered it much later. The 1980s marked its widespread adoption in Europe and America.
Before that, perfumers preferred Grandiflorum. Grasse in France grew this variety extensively. The region became famous for its jasmine fields. Today, very little jasmine remains in Grasse. What's left is reserved exclusively for three houses. Only a few major brands have access. This makes French jasmine incredibly rare and valuable.
Cultural significance around the world
In China and Japan
Jasmine has been consumed for thousands of years. People drink it in tea and infusions. The practice continues strong today. The flower adds delicate flavor and aroma.
In India
India holds jasmine at the center of tradition. Ninety percent of production serves ceremonial purposes. Every day, countless garlands are created. These are called "gajra" in local language. Women adorn their hair with these fragrant chains. Temples receive them as offerings too.
The small white flower appears everywhere culturally. Funeral rites incorporate jasmine extensively. Weddings can't happen without it. The flower symbolizes purity and devotion. Its presence marks life's most important moments.
In traditional medicine
Ayurvedic medicine attributes special properties to jasmine. Practitioners consider it deeply relaxing. It's also believed to have aphrodisiac qualities. People use jasmine oil for various treatments. The flower serves both body and spirit.
Why jasmine matters in perfumery
Jasmine brings unmatched richness to fragrances. Its complexity adds depth and character. The flower works in almost any composition. It blends beautifully with other notes. From fresh to oriental, jasmine enhances everything.
Understanding jasmine helps you appreciate your perfumes more. Next time you smell this note, remember its journey. Think of the sunrise harvest. Consider the thousands of flowers needed. Recognize the cultural heritage it carries. Jasmine isn't just an ingredient—it's a story.